OT:RR:CTF:VS H331108 AMW

Mr. Louis S. Shoichet, Esq.
Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg, P.A.
675 Third Avenue, Suite 1805-06
New York, NY 10017

RE: Valuation of Imported Watches and Watch Components; Statistical Note 1, Chapter 91, HTSUS

Dear Mr. Shoichet:

This is in response to your request of March 15, 2023, on behalf of your client, [ ] (the “requestor”). In your letter, you request a ruling pursuant to 19 CFR Part 177 concerning the valuation of watches and watch components imported by your client.

Your client has asked that certain information submitted in connection with this internal advice request be treated as confidential. Inasmuch as this request conforms to the requirements of 19 C.F.R. § 177.2(b)(7), your client’s request for confidentiality is approved. The information contained within brackets as well as all documents forwarded to our office will not be released to the public and will be withheld from the published version of this decision.

FACTS:

The following information is based on your March 15, 2023, ruling request and follow-up information provided to this office on October 2, 2023, November 14, 2023, and July 12, 2024. The requestor is an importer and distributor of watches containing both Swiss and other foreign- made components. All watches imported by the requestor are purchased from wholly owned subsidiary companies.

Your ruling request relates to two types of imported watches, which you refer to as: (1) “Self-Sourced Watches,” and (2) “Third-Party Sourced Watches.” The Self-Sourced Watches consist of watches whose components (e.g., movements, hands, dials, pushers, crowns, cases, and bands, bracelets or straps) are sourced by your client’s Swiss subsidiary and are assembled in Switzerland by a third-party contractor. These watches include only Swiss-origin movements. The Self-Sourced Watches category consists of three Swiss brands owned by the requestor: [ ], [ ], and [ ] (the “Swiss Brands”). The Third-Party Sourced watches consist of watches that are purchased as complete watches by the requestor’s Hong Kong subsidiary or, to a lesser extent, by its Swiss subsidiary from third-party contract manufacturers that source the parts themselves based on the requestor’s specifications. Most Third-Party Sourced Watches are produced in China. The Third-Party Sourced Watches consist of two brands owned by the requestor, [ ] and [ ], as well as several that are sold under exclusive license for several unrelated companies, including [ ], [ ], [ ], [ ], and [ ] (the “Fashion Brands”).

Most of the imported watches are mechanical display watches with electrically operated quartz crystal movements having zero to one jewels or with two or more jewels and are classified under heading 9102, Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (“HTSUS”). In addition, the requestor also imports watches with mechanical movements, including models with automatic winding, which are also classified under heading 9102, HTSUS.

In the past, the requestor has utilized four different component cost allocation formulas to apportion the value of imported watches based on the specific value of the four individual dutiable components (i.e., movement, case, strap/band, and battery) as required by Chapter 91 of the HTSUS. These formulas were based on watch construction and factored in the level of skill, time, effort, and complexity of assembly operations as well as the significance of each component in the function and reputation of the watch. These formulas were derived from the information available to the requestor for its Self-Sourced Watches, as well as from the company’s knowledge and experience in the watch industry. The same formulas were used for Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced watches. The requestor never filed or received a ruling request related to these formulas, and they are not subject to the instant request.

The requestor now proposes to use two different methods of valuing its Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced Watches. Specifically, for Self-Sourced Watches, recent software upgrades and information management enhancements have improved the requestor’s ability to track the value of Self-Sourced Watches to the individual component level. As a result, instead of using the historical allocation formulas, the requestor proposes to calculate and declare the portion of the total entered value of each Self-Sourced Watch SKU (stock keeping unit) attributable to the four statistical breakouts (i.e., movement, case, strap/band, and battery). These values will be derived from the component parts and material costs data provided by its suppliers, typically in the form of invoices issued to the requestor or its subsidiaries. Once the component and material costs are allocated to the four breakouts, the requestor asserts that the values provided for the four breakouts will not add to the total value of the watch because such amounts do not account for value related to intellectual property (e.g., trademarks), overhead, and profit. As a result, the requestor seeks to deduct the cost of the case, strap/band, and battery from the import value and attribute all remaining value to the movement. In doing so, the entirety of the watch’s value attributable to overhead, profit, and intellectual property would be included in the valuation of the movement. The requestor asserts that its proposed valuation apportionment is in line with U.S. Customs and Border Protection (“CBP”) Headquarters Ruling Letter (“HQ”) H259490, dated April 4, 2017. In that matter, CBP permitted the importer of certain “shop-worn” watches to deduct the costs of the watch case, strap or band, and battery from the overall value of the watch to determine the value of the watch movement.

2 For the Third-Party Sourced Watches, the requestor does not have a direct relationship with component suppliers and does not have access to specific component cost data. Instead, the requestor proposes to estimate the value of the Third-Party Sourced Watch components based on the cost of comparable watch parts purchased for its Self-Sourced Watches. As with its historical pricing formulas, the requestor will create set formulas to value specific groupings of its Third-Party Sourced watches, which will be based on various construction attributes (i.e., case material; strap/band material; whether the movement is electronically operated, automatic, or manually wound; and the type of display). These formulas will be used to calculate the values of the components in specific watch groupings (typically watches with similar physical characteristics), and each allocation formula will be determined on an annual or more frequent basis by calculating the weighted average allocation of each of the four statistical breakouts of all Self-Sourced Watch SKUs of that same construction grouping and applying that breakdown to Third-Party Sourced watches purchased and imported by the requestor. Once again, for the portions of the watch value attributable to labor, overhead, profit, and intellectual property, the requestor proposes to subtract the value attributable to the case, strap/band, and battery from the total customs value and attribute the entire amount to the value of the movement.

In support of this methodology, the requestor asserts that the component data obtained from its Self-Sourced Watches can be verified via documentation supplied by manufacturers during the bidding process and because there is significant regional overlap in the supply chains used for both its Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced watches. As noted above, the requestor has also provided an illustrative sample of the pricing data it obtains in relation to its Self- Sourced Watches, and which is of the kind that may be used in estimating the value of comparable Third-Party Sourced Watches. These documents include invoices documenting the cost of various watch components and assembly charges incurred. The requestor has also provided an illustrative product specification form used during the bidding process for one of its Third-Party Sourced Watch models, which provides cost estimates of various component parts. In support of its proposal to subtract the value attributable to the case, strap/band, and battery from the total value to obtain the value of the movement, the requestor again asserts that such a methodology is permissible pursuant to HQ H259490, in which this office permitted a similar methodology with respect to the import of certain used, “shop-worn” watches.

Should CBP find HQ H259490 inapplicable, the requestor proposes an alternative allocation methodology for both its Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced Watches. To begin with, the requestor would allocate component costs in the same manner as above (i.e., by utilizing its updated software to calculate the value of individual components of each watch SKU). However, instead of allocating all labor, overhead, and profit costs to the movement (i.e., by subtracting the material costs of the band/bracelet, case, and battery from the total value), the requestor proposes allocating such costs to the various breakouts based on data provided by its third-party manufacturers and Swiss subsidiary.

In relation to the Self-Sourced Watches, the requestor proposes to calculate the value for each statistical breakout (i.e., the movement, case, strap/band, and battery) based on the material cost for each component, plus an apportioned value for (1) assembly costs, and (2) overhead and profit costs. In addition, the requestor states that its proposed calculations eliminate brand and

3 intellectual property costs and that any such intellectual property and branding incurred by the foreign subsidiary exporter are recouped in the profit markup charged by that subsidiary.

In apportioning the assembly costs, the requestor provides an “assembly analysis,” in which it proposes to allocate assembly costs to each statistical breakout based on a weighted average in which the estimated raw percentage of time devoted to each assembly step is multiplied by an assessment of that step’s relative skill level. In doing so, the requestor would base its calculations on the exemplary data provided by one of its third-party assemblers, [ ] (the “Third Party Assembler”). For example, the requestor asserts, “dial installation is estimated to represent 10% of the total watch assembly time but requires a low skill level. Accordingly, the percentage of assembly cost to apply to this specific step is adjusted downward to reflect the lower skill level.” Based on its review of the Third-Party Assembler’s exemplary data, the requestor proposes to allocate the assembly costs for all Self-Sourced Watches in the following manner: 83% to the movement, 14% to the case, and 3% to the strap/band.

In apportioning the costs associated with overhead and profit to each breakout, the requestor provides an “overhead analysis,” in which it proposes to allocate overhead and profit costs to each statistical breakout based on five separately purchased components: (1) dial, (2) hands, (3) movement module, (4) case, and (5) strap/band. In so doing, the company provided data obtained from its enterprise resource planning (“ERP”) system showing all major cost centers associated with watch production (e.g., logistics, quality control, warehousing, and capital expenditures) and generally proposes to allocate the costs evenly to each of the five abovementioned components. Accordingly, for every Self-Sourced Watch, the requestor proposes to allocate 60% of the overhead and profit value to the movement (20% each for the movement module, dial, and hands), 20% to the case, and 20% to the strap/band.

For the Third-Party Sourced watches, the requestor states that the proposed allocation will be based upon the weighted average allocation percentages discussed above for similarly classified Self-Sourced Watches. The requestor asserts this approach is feasible because both sets of watches (i.e., Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced) share similar characteristics and construction features. For instance, both categories are subject to the same water resistance testing, must meet the requestor’s reliability testing protocols, and are subject to its general technical specifications and requirements for its suppliers.

ISSUE:

Whether the methods proposed by the requestor to appraise imported Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced Watches and their components are acceptable and comply with the requirements of Statistical Note 1, Chapter 91 of the HTSUS.

LAW AND ANALYSIS:

Merchandise imported into the United States is appraised in accordance with Section 402 of the Tariff Act of 1930, as amended by the Trade Agreements Act of 1979 (19 U.S.C. § 1401a). The preferred method of appraisement of imported merchandise for customs purposes is transaction value. Transaction value is the price actually paid or payable for the merchandise

4 when sold for export to the United States, plus certain enumerated additions. 19 U.S.C. § 1401 a(b)(l). The term “price actually paid or payable” means the total payment (whether direct or indirect, and exclusive of any costs, charges, or expenses incurred for transportation, insurance, and related services incident to the international shipment of the merchandise from the country of exportation to the place of importation in the United States) made, or to be made, for imported merchandise by the buyer to, or for the benefit of, the seller. 19 U.S.C § 1401a(b)(4)(A). The duty assessed upon imported merchandise is most often, though not always, based upon a percentage of the appraised value of the merchandise, i.e., an ad valorem duty.

Beyond the general requirements of 19 U.S.C. § 1401a, in appraising watches and timepieces, the HTSUS also requires that certain additional information regarding watch component valuation be declared to CBP. Watches are classified in Chapter 91, HTSUS. The Additional U.S. Notes to Chapter 91 inform us as to the elements of a watch. Specifically, Additional U.S. Note 1 provides:

For the purposes of this chapter:

(a) The term “watches” embraces timepieces (including timepieces having special features, such as chronographs, calendar watches and watches designed for use in skin diving) of a kind for wearing or carrying on the person whether or not the movement contained therein conforms to the definition of “watch movements” in note 3, above. Timepieces incorporating a stand, however simple, are not classifiable as watches.

We note that this is essentially the same definition of “watches” provided in the prior Tariff Schedules of the United States, with minor differences. Additional U.S. Note 2 provides:

Watch straps, watch bands and watch bracelets entered with wrist watches and of a kind normally sold therewith, whether or not attached, are classified with the watch in heading 9101 or 9102. Otherwise, watch straps, watch bands and watch bracelets shall be classified in heading 9113.

Wrist watches imported into the United States, are not assessed duty on the appraised value of the watch and strap, band or bracelet as a whole. Duty is instead assessed on the allocation of the appraised value of watch components, as duty is assessed against the components, and not the watch. In relevant part, Statistical Note 1, Chapter 91 of the HTSUS, provides additional information regarding the duty rate set forth for the subject watches and states, in relevant part, as follows:

The calculation of duties on various watches, clocks, watch movements and clock movements requires that these articles be constructively separated into their component parts and each component separately valued. The individual components shall be separately reported under the statistical suffixes show (sic) below. In each instance the sum of the values of the individual components shall be equal to the total value of the article. . . .

5 In other words, Statistical Note 1 to Chapter 91 of the HTSUS provides that the value of a watch must be reported to CBP by specifying the value of four individual components (also referred to herein as the “statistical breakouts”). The four statistical breakouts are: (1) the movement; (2) the case; (3) the strap, band, or bracelet; and (4) the battery. The total value of the watch must equal the value of the individual breakouts. See also, See United States v. Continental Lemania, Inc., 21 CCPA 192 (1933) (“In a long line of decisions, among them United States v. European Watch Co., 11 Cust. Ct. App. 363, T.D. 59160, it is definitely settled that watch movements and watchcases had by judicial determination, as well as by departmental direction, attained a settled definite status as separate entities for tariff purposes prior to the act of 1913.”)

The requestor states that the imported watches primarily involve mechanical display watches not made of precious metal with battery-operated quartz crystal movements having zero to one jewels in the movement or with two or more jewels in the movement. These watches are classified in tariff provisions of Heading 9102, HTSUS, and are associated with four statistical breakouts (i.e., movement; case; strap, band or bracelet; and battery). See Chapter 91, HTSUS, Statistical Note 1(a). To a lesser extent, the requestor also imports mechanical movement watches, including those with automatic winding. These watches are also classified in tariff provisions of Heading 9102, HTSUS, and are associated with three statistical breakouts (i.e., movement; case; and strap, band or bracelet). See Chapter 91, HTSUS, Statistical Note 1(d). Each of these components is subject to a different duty rate under the HTSUS, with the movement typically subject to a fixed monetary amount and the remainder to an ad valorem percentage.

For both its Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced Watches, the requestor proposes to calculate the value of the movement by deducting the material cost of the components comprising the case, strap/band, and battery from the total value of the watch. In doing so, the entire labor, profit, and intellectual property costs associated with the watch would be included in the valuation of the movement, which is typically assessed a fixed duty, as opposed to an ad valorem rate typically applied to the case, strap/band, and battery. In proposing this methodology, the requestor seeks to have CBP extend the rationale outlined in HQ H259490, dated April 4, 2017, to both the Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced Watches.

In HQ H259490, the importer, Timeworks International Inc. (“Timeworks”), engaged in the importation of watches under two different types of transactions. The first type of transaction involved the importer engaging manufacturers to produce watches for sale (the “manufacturer- produced watches”). As Timeworks engaged the manufacturers directly, it had access to invoices showing the actual costs of the watch components assessed duty under the watch provisions set forth in Chapter 91. The second type of transaction involved Timeworks importing, for the most part, “shop-worn” luxury watches (e.g., factory-condition luxury watches previously used as shop display models, possibly with slight scratching or cosmetic defects). For the shop-worn watches, Timeworks knew the complete amount it paid for a finished watch, but did not have insight into the individual statistical breakouts. As a result, Timeworks developed a spreadsheet, based upon its experience and familiarity with the direct manufacturing costs of similar items, upon which to base values for watch components in the shop-worn watches. To

6 determine the value of a shop-worn watch’s movement, Timeworks subtracted the calculated value of the watch case, strap/bracelet, and battery (if the watch had a quartz movement) from the amount paid for the finished watch. In reviewing Timeworks’ proposal, CBP stated that “based on the fact that Timeworks has access to cost information for the components made for its own Swiss origin house brand watches that are very comparable to the components of the luxury shop-worn Swiss origin watches that it is importing, CBP believes that Timeworks is in a unique position to furnish an accurate valuation for the four watch components that Statistical Note 1 of Chapter 91 of the HTSUS requires to be reported.” Further, CBP was satisfied that the watch components for Timeworks in-house brand watches were basically comparable to the components used in the other brands of Swiss watches it was importing. As a result, for the shop-worn watches, CBP permitted Timeworks to apply the cost information obtained from its manufacturer-produced watches to calculate the value of the individual components of the shop- worn watches, subtracting the component costs of the case, band/bracelet, and battery from the total cost of the watch to obtain the value of the movement. Importantly, however, this decision did not permit such an approach for the watches produced by manufacturers that Timeworks had engaged directly; instead, Timeworks had complete insights into the component costs and apportioned the value of each breakout based on the information obtained from its manufacturers.

In HQ H305372, dated January 17, 2020, CBP declined to extend the rationale in HQ H259490 to various models of imported Rolex watches. In HQ H305372, the importer did not specify whether the subject watches were new, used, or shop-worn, and did not have access to component data of similar watches as Timeworks did in HQ H259490. Instead, the importer in HQ H305372 proposed to value the individual breakouts based on the cost of similar watch components as found in a public internet search (e.g., for costs of identical leather, rubber, textile, and metal bands). The importer then proposed to use the same component percentage value allocations regardless of type, value, or classification of the entered watches. CBP declined to approve this methodology, distinguishing the importer’s approach from HQ H259490 on the basis that the importer did not have the same insight into specific component costs via the separate purchase of manufacturer-produced watches as Timeworks did. In addition, CBP noted that, in that matter, it would not make sense to apportion the entire cost of intellectual property to the movement:

A search of the United States Patent and Trademark website reveals that patents are assigned to Rolex for components of watch straps and watch bracelets, and for watch cases, in addition to patents which are attributable to watch movements. Thus, in this case, it is clearly erroneous to allocate all of the intellectual property value of the watches to the movement components. Further, the labor for encasing the movement into the watch case should not be wholly attributed to the movement. See S.H. Pomerance Co., 21 Cust. Ct. 334 (1948) wherein the court upheld the decision of the appraiser in including part of the “casing-up expenses,” that is, “the time and labor expended on the watch cases and watch movements . . . in combining them to form watches, . . .” in the value of the cases, as well as the value of the movements.

7 Taken together, HQ H259490 and HQ H305372 demonstrate that it is only in a narrow set of circumstances that CBP will permit importers to calculate the value of a watch’s movement by subtracting the material and component costs for the non-movement components from the watch’s total value. As with HQ H259490, such a method may be appropriate when an importer of used watches for which it has no component-level cost information has specific, component-level cost data for similar watches that it sources from contract or third-party manufacturers. In contrast, CBP has not approved such an approach when an importer has specific, component-level data for the imported watches (e.g., the manufacturer-sourced watches in HQ H259490) or when the importer cannot access specific, comparable values. In addition, as in H305372, an importer may not apportion the entire profit, labor, or intellectual property costs associated with a watch to the movement in instances where it is clear such costs are not entirely attributable to the movement. See HQ H305372 (although in HQ H259490, CBP accepted Timeworks contention that the majority of the value contained in a brand name of a watch can generally be attributed to the movement, it did not address whether all intellectual property value should be attributed to the movement.) Nevertheless, due to the complexity of a watch’s movement, CBP has recognized that a majority of labor, overhead, and profit costs is likely to be allocated to the movement. See id. CBP does not require that a majority of labor, overhead, and profit expenses be allocated to the movement, however.

In the present matter, we determine that HQ H259490 is not applicable. First, the Self- Sourced Watches, for which the requestor has “complete visibility into all component parts costs and assembly costs,” are similar to the manufacturer-sourced watches in HQ H259490. In relevant part, the manufacturer-sourced watches in HQ H259490 were produced in relation to Timeworks’ own in-house brands and for which the company had direct contact with its manufacturers and could “obtain the invoices showing the actual cost of each of the four watch components.” Similar to HQ H259490, for its Self-Sourced Watches the requestor has complete visibility into the component and manufacturing costs for all breakouts, including the movement, and therefore does not need to subtract the values of the non-movement components to calculate the value of the movement. Second, for the Third-Party Sourced Watches, we note that as in HQ H305372 and S.H. Pomerance Co., 21 Cust. Ct. 334 (1948), it would be clearly erroneous to allocate the entire value of the watches’ intellectual property, labor, and profit costs to the value of the movement. Specifically, in a follow-up submission, the requestor acknowledged (and CBP confirmed in an internet search) that certain Third-Party Sourced watches contain fashion- brand marks or logos on non-movement components, including the strap/band and case. In addition, the requestor also confirmed in a follow-up communication that there are labor costs associated with the casing and attachment of the strap/band for the subject watches. Because the importer has complete insight into the component costs of its Self-Sourced Watches and because it is manifestly clear that not all intellectual property, labor, overhead, and profit costs associated with the Third-Party Sourced Watches are attributable to the movement, we determine that HQ H259490 is inapplicable to the present matter.

As outlined in the FACTS section above, should CBP find HQ H259490 inapplicable, the requestor has suggested an alternative allocation methodology for both its Self-Sourced and

8 Third-Party Sourced Watches. For the Self-Sourced watches, the requestor proposes a methodology in which the intangible costs are broken into two separate categories, assembly costs and overhead and profit costs, and apportioned separately. The requestor proposes to apportion assembly costs for all Self-Sourced Watches as follows: 83% to the movement, 14% to the case, and 3% to the strap/band. And for overhead and profit expenses, the requestor proposes to apportion 60% to the movement, 20% to the case, and 20% to the strap/band. For Third-Party Sourced watches, the requestor states that the proposed allocation will be based upon the weighted average allocation percentages for similarly classified Self-Sourced Watches.

The requestor’s proposed method of allocation is not supported by the background documentation. First, the requestor’s proposed weighted-average allocation of the costs associated with assembly operations is based on a subjective assessment of the relative complexity of various manufacturing steps multiplied by the time taken to accomplish each operation. For instance, the analysis provided by the Third-Party Assembler states that the complexity associated with the mounting of hands onto a watch requires a high level of “necessary skills” while the performance of a “time accuracy check” involves a low amount of skills. However, the documentation does not state how such assessments were made or what criteria were used. In addition, although the requestor has confirmed that it has insight into all costs associated with its Self-Sourced Watches, it proposes to use a fixed formula to allocate intangible costs based on data provided by only one of its suppliers.

Second, the requestor’s proposed allocation of overhead and profit is also not substantiated by the provided documentation. Specifically, the requestor generally proposes to allocate the costs associated with overhead and profit equally to what it describes as five “separately purchased” components, which results in the following allocations: 60% to the movement (20% each for the movement module, dial, and hands), 20% to the case, and 20% to the strap/band. Once again, however, the underlying documentation does not provide any indication why such costs should be allocated evenly between these components. Indeed, the exemplary documentation indicates that the component material costs do not reflect this allocation. For instance, for one exemplary SKU related to the [ ], the requestor’s supplementary documentation indicates that a minority of the component material cost is associated with the movement whereas the watch’s bracelet is the single most valuable component [(i.e., CHF 25.65 for the movement module, dial, and hands out of a total material cost of CHF 83.60)]. In fact, in both sample watch SKUs provided by the requestor, the components associated with the movement represent less than half the total material cost of the watches. In addition, for the same reasons, we determine that the proposed cost allocations proposed for the Self-Sourced Watches cannot be cross-applied to the Third-Party Sourced Watches.

Instead, we suggest that the valuation for intangible costs associated with the value of each watch (e.g., overhead, profit, and intellectual property) be apportioned in the same ratio as the material costs associated with each statistical breakout. For instance, if 65% of the material value is attributable to the movement, 15% to the case, 15% to the strap/band, and 5% to the battery, then these same percentages should be used in apportioning the remaining costs (e.g.,

9 production, profit, intellectual property). As outlined in the FACTS above, such a method of valuation is possible based on the information available to the requestor, who has confirmed that, due to recent advances in its internal recordkeeping capacity, the requestor has sufficient information related to the production of its Self-Sourced Watches to identify the material costs associated with each statistical breakout. Based on this production information, the requestor’s knowledge of the watch industry, and access to specifications forms data, the requestor states that it is also able to estimate the material costs associated with its Third-Party Sourced watches.

HOLDING:

Based on the information provided, the method proposed by the requestor to appraise the imported Self-Sourced and Third-Party Sourced Watches and the four statistical breakouts does not satisfy the requirements of Statistical Note 1, Chapter 91, HTSUS.

Please note that 19 C.F.R. § 177.9(b)(1) provides that “[e]ach ruling letter is issued on the assumption that all of the information furnished in connection with the ruling request and incorporated in the ruling letter, either directly, by reference, or by implication, is accurate and complete in every material respect. The application of a ruling letter by [CBP] field office to the transaction to which it is purported to relate is subject to the verification of the facts incorporated in the ruling letter, a comparison of the transaction described therein to the actual transaction, and the satisfaction of any conditions on which the ruling was based.”

A copy of this ruling letter should be attached to the entry documents filed at the time this merchandise is entered. If the documents have been filed without a copy, this ruling should be brought to the attention of the CBP officer handling the transaction.

Sincerely,

Monika R. Brenner, Chief
Valuation and Special Programs Branch

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