CLA CO:R:C:T 952912 jb

Michael R. Doram, Esq.
Politis, Pollack & Doram
3255 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 1688
Los Angeles, California 90010

RE: Country of origin determination for T-shirts; dyeing and printing operations require additional finishing operations for new country of origin determination

Dear Mr. Doram:

This letter is in response to your inquiry of November 17, 1992, requesting a country of origin determination for 100 percent cotton T-shirts.

FACTS:

The garments at issue consist of 100 percent cotton T-shirts imported from Mexico. The process of manufacture is as follows:

1. Cotton fabric, produced in China, arrives in Honduras in bulk form and without lines or marks of demarcation

2. In Honduras the following operations take place:

a. the fabric is cut to specific shapes and patterns to create the front and back panels and the sleeves

b. complete sewing operations of the pieces to form the T-shirts

c. forming of the neck band and hemming of the sleeves and bottom of the garments 3. In Mexico the T-shirts would be either dyed and screen printed, dyed and hand-painted or, dyed, screen printed and hand-painted. In any instance, the following operations also take place:

a. inspection

b. screen-printing with up to four impressions per garment c. final treatment (consisting of air spraying, dipping the garments into a container of dye, hand squeezing of the garments, overdying and padding)

d. washing and drying e. labelling, ticketing, folding and packing for shipment

ISSUE:

What is the country of origin of the merchandise at issue?

LAW AND ANALYSIS:

Section 12.130 of the Customs Regulations (19 CFR 12.130) sets forth the principles of country of origin for textiles and textile products subject to Section 204 of the Agricultural Act of 1956, as amended (7 U.S.C. 1854).

Pursuant to 19 CFR 12.130(b), the standard of substantial transformation governs the country of origin determination where textiles and textile products are processed in more than one country. The country of origin of textile products is deemed to be that foreign territory or country where the article last underwent a substantial transformation. Substantial transformation is said to occur when the article has been transformed into a new and different article of commerce by means of substantial manufacturing or processing.

The factors to be applied in determining whether or not a manufacturing operation is substantial are set forth in 19 CFR 12.130(d). Section 12.130(e)(1) describes manufacturing or processing operations from which an article will usually be considered a product of the country in which those operations occurred. Section 12.130(e)(1)(i) provides that an article or material usually will be a product of a particular foreign territory or country where there has been, in addition to dying and printing, two or more of the enumerated finishing operations, i.e., bleaching, shrinking, fulling, napping, decating, permanent stiffening, weighting, permanent embossing or moireing.

Section 12.130(e)(1)(iv) provides that an article or material usually will be a product of a particular foreign territory or country when there has been both a cutting of fabric into parts and the assembly of those parts into the completed article. Section 12.130(e)(2)(i) and 12.130(e)(2)(v) provide that an article or material usually will not be considered to be a product of a particular foreign territory or country by reason of dyeing and/or printing or labeling, cleaning or packaging.

We have previously held that cutting of fabric into garment parts and the assembly of those parts constitutes a substantial transformation of the fabric, resulting in the apparel pieces becoming a product of the country where the fabric is cut. Customs has also held that mere dyeing and/or printing or labeling, cleaning or packaging operations alone, do not constitute a substantial transformation for a country of origin determination. See for example, HQ 734526, dated August 4, 1992, HQ 734321, dated April 13, 1992, HQ 734295, dated March 30, 1992, HQ 734351, dated March 2, 1992, HQ 734394, dated February 10, 1992.

Similarly, we have held that even when a hand-painting operation is introduced, this does not result in a substantial transformation of the article. See, HQ 734220, dated December 27, 1991.

Accordingly, the operations performed in Mexico do not constitute a substantial transformation of the garments when they involve only dyeing and printing (without the requisite two or more defined operations as per Section 12.130(e)(1)(i)), and mere labeling, ticketing, folding, and packing operations.

HOLDING:

The country or origin of the T-shirts is Honduras. It is at the cutting and assembly process, in Honduras, that the textile product undergoes a substantial transformation and is transformed into a new and different article of commerce. That is the last substantial transformation of the goods in question.

The holding set forth above applies only to the specific factual situation and merchandise identified in the ruling request. This position is clearly set forth in Section 177.9(b)(1), Customs Regulations (19 CFR 177.9(b)(1)). This section states that a ruling letter is issued on the assumption that all of the information furnished in the ruling letter, either directly, by reference, or by implication, is accurate and complete in every material respect.

Should it be subsequently determined that the information furnished is not complete and does not comply with 19 CFR 177.9(b)(1), the ruling will be subject to modification or revocation. In the event there is a change in the facts previously furnished this may affect the determination of country of origin. Accordingly, it is recommended that a new ruling request be submitted in accordance with Section 177.2, Customs Regulations (19 CFR 177.2).

Sincerely,

John Durant, Director
Commercial Rulings Division