CLA-2 CO:R:C:M 950718

Peter T. Mangione, President
Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America
1319 F Street, NW
Washington, D.C. 20004

RE: Footwear, band; foxing or foxing-like; Substantial encirclement; T.D. 83-116

Dear Mr. Mangione:

In a letter dated November 18, 1991, you assert that Customs interpretation of the term "substantially encircle" as it relates to "foxing and foxing-like bands" on imported footwear is not in accord with the plain meaning of the term and the intent of T.D. 83-116. Further, you oppose the imposition of the so-called "40- 60" rule and also express concern with the application of this rule by Customs Import Specialists at the various ports.

FACTS:

A foxing may be described as a band, i.e., a strip serving to join, hold together or integrate the sole and the upper of footwear. It may be a thin flat encircling strip, strap, or flat belted material serving chiefly to bind or contain the sole and the upper. A foxing-like band has the same, or nearly the same appearance, qualities, or characteristics as the foxing appearing on the traditional sneaker or tennis shoe. Customs has taken the position that foxing or foxing-like band must encircle or substantially encircle the entire shoe in order to be considered as such.

ISSUE:

Does an encirclement of over 40% of the perimeter of the shoe upper by a band constitute "substantial encirclement"?

LAW AND ANALYSIS:

After careful consideration of numerous comments submitted by footwear importers and the domestic shoe industry, by a document published as T.D. 83-116 in the Federal Register of May 23, 1983 [48 FR 22904, 17 Cust. Bull. 229 (1983)], the Customs Service set forth:

(1) Customs position regarding the proper interpretation of the provision in the Tariff Schedules of the United States (TSUS) pertaining to imported footwear having foxing or a foxing-like band applied or molded at the sole and overlapping the upper, and (2) guidelines relating to the characteristics of foxing and a foxing-like band.

Even though the TSUS was superseded by the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States Annotated (HTSUSA), effective January 1, 1989, the guidelines of T.D. 83-116 are still followed by Customs with regard to the classification of footwear.

T.D. 83-116 set forth guidelines relating to the characteristics of foxing or a foxing-like band. The relevant guidelines pertaining to encirclement read as follows:

Characteristics of a Foxing

* * * * * *

5. A foxing must encircle or substantially encircle the entire shoe.

Characteristics of a Foxing-like Band

* * * * * *

5. A foxing-like band must encircle or substantially encircle the entire shoe.

The "40-60" rule, as it is referred to, is a guideline used by Customs import specialists to assist in making a determination pertaining to encirclement. Generally, under this rule, an encirclement of less than 40% of the perimeter of the shoe by the band does not constitute foxing or a foxing-like band. An encirclement of between 40% to 60% of the perimeter of the shoe by the band may or may not constitute a foxing or a foxing-like band depending on whether the band functions or looks like a foxing. An encirclement of over 60% of the perimeter of the shoe by the band is always considered substantial encirclement.

You state that it was the trade's understanding from the inception of T.D. 83-116 that the term "substantially encircle" means a band that virtually goes all the way around the circumference of the shoe. Further, the use of the modifier "substantially" was to prevent avoidance of the high "foxing" duties by a small interruption in a band's encirclement of a shoe. The trade did not object to the phraseology, since it knew that some "foxing-like bands," not being functional, could have the appearance of a true "foxing" (which always encircles the entire shoe) without total encirclement.

You point out that in light of this understanding of what constitutes foxing or a foxing-like band, the trade was concerned when the "40-60" rule was instituted. You insist that this rule subverts the meaning of T.D. 83-116. Further, you contend that the rule is unworkable for both the trade and the Customs Service because it makes the analysis of coverage over 40% a purely subjective exercise, one without national standards or uniform application. You state that some Customs Import Specialists take the same view and because of convenience substitute a simplified rule, i.e., where coverage exceeds 40% of the shoe's perimeter, "substantial encirclement" always exists. You believe that this new development compounds the wrong of the "40-60" rule and distorts the language and spirit of T.D. 83-116.

You maintain that to constitute foxing or a foxing-like band a feature "must encircle or substantially encircle the entire shoe." To "encircle" is to form a circle about or to surround. Something is "substantial" when it is "specified to a large degree or in the main." Thus, a feature, which covers 60% of the perimeter of a shoe does not surround it "in the main."

You suggest that a proper interpretation of T.D. 83-116 means that an encirclement by the band of less than 75% of the perimeter of the shoe is not a "substantial encirclement." Further, a band which covers less than 75% of the outside of a shoe does not surround it "in the main."

As requested, we have carefully reviewed this issue. However, we do not agree that the rule is unworkable. To the contrary, we believe that Customs and the footwear trade are uniformly applying the guidelines in T.D. 83-116 and have been doing so since 1983 when they were published.

Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary (1974) defines the word "substantial" as follows:

1c: important, essential 2: ample to satisfy and nourish 3b: considerable in quantity: significantly large 5: being largely, but not wholly that which is specified.

The unabridged version of the Random House Dictionary of the English Language defines the same word in the following terms:

1. of ample or considerable amount, quantity, size, etc. 2. of a corporal or material nature; real or actual. 7. pertaining to the substance, matter, or material of a thing. 8. of or pertaining to the essence of a thing; essential, material, or important.

One of the definitions for the term in Black's Law Dictionary, Fourth Edition, is "Belonging to substance; actually existing; real; not seeming or imaginary; not illusive; solid; true; veritable.

It is noted that none of definitions actually quantify "substantial". It is always expressed in other terms which clearly convey the meaning.

It is our position that no definition of the word "substantial" requires a determination by Customs that the band encircle 75% of the perimeter of the shoe to be considered foxing or a foxing-like band. Certainly, a 40% encirclement is a substantial encirclement of the perimeter of the shoe in that it conforms exactly to the Webster's Dictionary definition of "substantial" by being ample, considerable in quantity, significantly large and largely, but not wholly that which is specified. A 40% encirclement also meets the terms used in both the Random House and the Blacks Law Dictionaries.

In the case of Ways & Means, Inc. v. Ivac Corp., 506 F. Supp. 697 (1979), the court stated at page 699 as follows:

Indeed, plaintiffs concede that defendant has never refused to sell thermometers outside the TSP program. And it is clear that since 1971, a substantial percentage-perhaps 25%-of defendant's sales have been through the direct sale of units to hospitals, outside the TSP program.

Inasmuch as the court considered 25% of sales of thermometers to be a "substantial" percentage of sales, our calling a 40% encirclement of the perimeter of the shoe a "substantial" encirclement does not stretch the definition of "substantial" encirclement.

It should be noted that the 40% rule does not mean that encirclement of over 40% of the perimeter of the shoe mandates a finding that foxing or a foxing-like band exists. As you are aware a shoe may have a 60% encirclement of the perimeter by the band and still not be foxing or a foxing-like band due to the fact that it may not function or look like a foxing.

It is true that a large number of Customs rulings are finding foxing-like bands on shoes where the 1/4 inch or more overlap encircles only slightly more than 40% of the perimeter of the upper. The reason for this is that most of these shoes have the appearance of foxing when all or most of the 1/4 inch overlap is visible because it is at the front, the outside, or the back of the shoe.

It is our opinion that application of the "40-60" rule by the various ports is being uniformly applied inasmuch as it is subject to review by the National Import Specialist for footwear.

HOLDING:

An encirclement of over 40% of the perimeter of the shoe upper by a foxing or foxing-like band may constitute "substantial" encirclement within the intendment of T.D. 83-116.

Sincerely,

Harvey B. Fox, Director
Office of Regulations & Rulings


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