CLA-2 CO:R:C:G 083536 HP

Eleanore Kelly-Kobayashi, Esq.
Rode & Qualey
295 Madison Ave.
New York, NY 10017

RE: Classification of water-resistant garments

Dear Ms. Kelly-Kobayashi:

This is in reply to your letter of December 9, 1988, concerning the tariff classification of men's and women's jackets, produced in Korea, for your client Pacific Trail, Inc., under the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States Annotated (HTSUSA).

FACTS:

The merchandise at issue consists of six styles of men's and women's jackets, described by you as indicated. Random sampling by our office demonstrates that all styles except LM2608 reach to below mid-thigh. Any designation as "parka" or "anorak" in the "FACTS" segment has been taken verbatim from your ruling request; the terms are not defined for classification purposes until the "LAW AND ANALYSIS" segment of this ruling letter.

1. Style LM2608 is a ladies' parka extending to mid-thigh. The outer shell consists of 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton. It has a full front opening secured by a two-way zipper that is covered by a snapped flap. It includes a drawstring hood that snaps off, two front cargo pockets with flaps secured by hook and loop tape, two slanted pockets at the chest, adjustable wrists, and a drawstring at the waist. The nonquilted lining is composed of 100 percent acrylic in the body, and 100 percent nylon in the sleeves. The filling consists of 100 percent polyester.

2. Style G2622 is a girl's parka that has a full front two- way zipper opening that is covered by a snapped flap. It is approximately fingertip length. The jacket has two front cargo pockets secured by snapped flaps. The wrists have snaps to adjust the fit of the garment. The jacket has an attached hood with a drawstring closure. The outer shell is of 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton. The quilted lining is composed of 100 percent cotton in the body and 100 percent nylon in the sleeves. The filling is 100 percent polyester. The jacket is imported with a knitted acrylic fringed scarf that matches the pattern used in the lining.

3. Style LM2600 is a ladies' nylon parka, approximately fingertip in length. The shell is 100 percent lightweight nylon. It has a full front opening secured by a two-way zipper that is covered by a flap to provide additional warmth. There is a drawstring at the waist as well as at the lower edge to adjust the fit and provide additional warmth. The garment has two slash pockets secured by snapped flaps that are located below the waist. It also has a hood secured by a drawstring, and elasticized wrists. The nonquilted lining consists of 100 percent cotton in the body and 100 percent nylon in the sleeves.

4. Style LM2605 is a ladies' parka, approximately fingertip in length, of 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton. It has a full front two-way zipper opening and elasticized cuffs. The nonquilted lining consists of 100 percent acrylic and 100 percent nylon in the sleeves. A fringed scarf composed of 100 percent acrylic fabric, and matching the pattern used in the lining of the coat, is imported along with the garment. A hang loop located in the rear panel directly below the shoulder holds the scarf when the garment is not in use.

5. Style LM2654 is a ladies' jacket, with a full front opening secured by a two-way zipper. It is approximately fingertip in length. There is a flap covering the zipper that is secured by snaps. The jacket has slash pockets in the front and an attached drawstring hood. There is another drawstring at the lower edge. The outer shell is composed of 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton. The quilted lining consists of 100 percent cotton in the body and 100 percent nylon in the sleeves. 6. Style M2485 is a man's parka that is composed of 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton. It has a full front two-way zipper opening covered by a snapped flap. The garment is approximately fingertip in length. The quilted lining consists of 100 percent acrylic in the body and 100 percent nylon in the sleeves. It features a drawstring hood that zips off and a drawstring at the waist to adjust the fit of the garment. The jacket has four cargo pockets with flaps secured by snaps, and cuffs that have hook and loop closures.

ISSUE:

Are the instant garments considered parkas and similar garments, or anoraks and similar garments, for classification purposes under the HTSUSA?

LAW AND ANALYSIS:

Subheadings 6201.11 through 6201.19, HTSUSA, provide for men's or boy's overcoats, carcoats, capes, cloaks and similar coats. Subheadings 6201.91 through 6201.99, HTSUSA, provide for men's or boy's anoraks (including ski jackets), windbreakers and similar articles. Heading 6202 provides similar breakouts for women and girls. Classification, therefore, must rely upon the material the garments are composed of for HTSUSA purposes, and the differentia- tion between parka-type garments and overcoat-type garments.

Material Composition

The Explanatory Notes (EN) to the HTSUSA constitute the official interpretation of the tariff at the international level. The General Explanatory Note to Chapter 61 states:

The classification of goods in [this] Chapter is not affected by the presence of parts or accessories of, for example, woven fabrics, furskin, feather, leather, plastics or metal. Where, however, the presence of such materials constitutes more than mere trimming the articles are classified in accordance with the relative Chapter Notes . . . or failing that, according to the General Interpretative Rules.

The EN for Chapter 62 contain a corresponding provision, except that "knitted or crocheted" is substituted for "woven."

Accordingly, goods of Chapters 61 and 62 with relatively insignificant linings, shoulder pads, pockets, etc., of the materials noted, should be classified according to Subheading Note 2(A) to Section XI, HTSUSA (chief weight), without considering those trimmings. Where, however, those goods have parts or accessories that contribute materially to their character or usefulness (for example, heavy weight linings which provide a substantial degree of warmth to the wearer), then they must be considered along with the outer shells and other significant portions in determining the proper classification of those goods. In this situation, it is appropriate to utilize Subheading Note 2(B)(a) of Section XI, HTSUSA.

Subheading Note 2 to Section XI, HTSUSA, provides, in pertinent part:

(A) Products of chapters 56 to 63 containing two or more textile materials are to be regarded as consisting wholly of that textile material which would be selected under note 2 to this section for the classification of a product of chapters 50 to 55 consisting of the same textile materials.

(B) For the application of this rule:

(a) Where appropriate, only the part which determines the classification under general interpretative rule 3 shall be taken into account.

Note 2(A), Section XI, to which Subheading Note 2(A) refers, provides:

Goods classifiable in chapters 50 to 55 or in heading 5809 or 5902 and of a mixture of two or more textile materials are to be classified as if consisting wholly of that one textile material which predominates by weight over each other textile material.

In applying the Section Note, we have stated that:

Subheading Note 2(A) is dependent on the application of Section XI Note 2(A). The subheading note states that the classification of textile garments and articles will be governed by the textile material selected under the section note. However, the section note is directed towards the classification of yarns and fabrics which are a "mixture" of two or more textile materials. According to the Harmonized Commodity Description and Coding System, Explanatory Notes, at page 705 ..., textile materials may be mixed:

-prior to or during spinning;

-during twisting;

-during weaving.

Accordingly, the mixture of textile materials contemplated in the section note is not a mixture of two or more separate fabrics. Before the subheading note, which is predicated on the section note, can be utilized, it must first be determined to which of the fabrics comprising the article the section note (and, therefore, the subheading note) applies.

The garment[s] in question [are] made of [several] fabrics. If those fabrics were imported together in fabric form, Section XI Note 2(A) would not require that the weights of their components be compared and that classification be according to the textile material which predominates. Rather, they would be classifiable as separate fabrics. Therefore, where separate fabrics are combined to form a textile garment or article [as in the instant matter], GRI 3 is utilized first to select which fabric [(and which part of the garment that fabric comprises)] will determine classification.

HRL 084012 PR of June 12, 1989.

Accordingly, where the instant garments contain parts or accessories that materially contribute to their character or usefulness, those parts or accessories must be considered along with the outer shell in determining the applicable classification. Following Subheading Note 2(B)(a) to Section XI, GRI 3 is consulted to determine which portions of the garment are to be considered in applying Subheading Note 2(A).

Garment Differentiation

A recent Headquarters Ruling Letter addressed the parka/anorak issue. In HRL 081134 DSN of April 27, 1989, we held that for classification under the HTSUSA:

... we are distinguishing parka-type garments from anoraks. Parka-type garments are classifiable under the provisions for overcoats, car-coats, capes, cloaks and similar articles, not under the provisions for anoraks (including ski-jackets) and similar articles. In order for a garment to be considered a parka, it must have a hood, a complete opening at the front fastened by a zipper or a Velcro-like fastener, with or without a protective flap; a lining either quilted or of simulated fur fabric; a drawstring or other tightening device at the waist, except a belt, and outer pockets. The length of the parka may vary from mid-thigh to knee.

Anoraks have many features in common with parkas; however, they differ in regards to the length of the garment. The length of an anorak can vary from waist length to mid- thigh only. Anoraks must have a hood which can be concealed in the collar; a complete opening at the front fastened by a zipper or velcro [sic.]; a lining quilted or padded, a drawstring or other means of tightening; close-fitting elasticized sleeve-ends; collar and pockets. If the length of the garment is longer than mid-thigh and yet has the features described above, it will nevertheless be con- sidered a parka and classifiable under the provisions for overcoats, car-coats, capes, cloaks and similar articles. [Emphasis added.]

The term "similar articles" in relation to anoraks, includes garments which have the features of an anorak except for either a hood or a lining. These similar articles include garments defined as anoraks which have only a partial opening and fastening device at the front.

You contend that we erred in differentiating between parkas and anoraks solely on the basis of garment length. You claim that if the instant garments are not themselves anoraks, they are ejusdem generis with the exemplars listed the subheading covering anoraks, and must be classified therein.

In applying the rule of ejusdem generis to determine whether an item is embraced within a particular class, the courts have looked to the articles enumerated within that class to ascertain the characteristics they have in common. Kotake Co., Ltd. v. United States, 58 Cust. Ct. 196, C.D. 2934 (1967). The Explanatory Note to heading 6101, HTSUSA, which applies, mutatis mutandis, to the articles of headings 6102, 6201 and 6202, includes in these headings several garments, including three-quarter coats, trench coats, parkas and padded waistcoats, "characterized by the fact that they are generally worn over all other clothing for protection against the weather." The Explanatory Note, however, does not distinguish between overcoats and similar garments, and anoraks and similar garments.

It is our opinion that parkas have in common many of the characteristics of anoraks. Like anoraks, parkas are worn by those engaging in outdoor winter sports, or by those who prefer casual styled outerwear. This distinguishes parkas and anoraks from overcoats, carcoats, storm coats, etc., which are normally cut long and full to fit over a sports jacket, suit, dress, etc. While length alone may be sufficient to view parkas as garments commercially distinct from anoraks, length alone is NOT sufficient to classify parkas outside the purview of the subheading for anoraks and similar garments. Therefore, while the characteristics for anoraks and parkas we developed in HRL 081134 are still valid, identifying a garment as a parka will now place classification under the subheading for garments similar to anoraks. In this respect, HRL 081134 of June 12, 1989, is hereby revoked.

The Garments at Issue

Style LM2608

This garment does not have a padded or quilted lining, thereby disqualifying it from anorak consideration. It is our opinion that the adjustable sleeves satisfy the requirement for close-fitting elasticized sleeves established in HRL 081134. The Velcro-like fastening serves the same purpose as an elastic band would, and the garment would appear incomplete without the wrist fasteners attached. The requirements for anoraks and similar articles, are therefore modified to incorporate Velcro-like adjustable sleeve- ends as alternatives to close-fitting elasticized sleeves. As a result, the garment is classifiable, under the definition developed in HRL 081134, as an anorak and similar article. The outer shell of 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton, considered of poly- ester under Subheading Note 2(A), supra, imparts the essential character of the garment.

Style G2622

This garment is missing a drawstring or other tightening device at the waist. It is our opinion, however, that to exclude this garment from the class "anoraks and similar articles" merely because of a missing tightening mechanism at the waist is contrary to the essential nature of these garments. Therefore, the definition of anoraks and similar garments is modified to include garments with the features of anoraks except for a tightening device at the waist. As a result, this garment is classifiable as an article similar to anoraks.

Essential Character of the Garment

The General Rules of Interpretation (GRIs) to the HTSUSA govern the classification of goods in the tariff schedule. GRI 1 states, in pertinent part:

... classification shall be determined according to the terms of the headings and any relative section or chapter notes ....

Goods which cannot be classified in accordance with GRI 1 are to be classified in accordance with GRIs 2 through 4, taken in order, and then GRIs 5 and 6.

GRI 3 states, in pertinent part:

When by application of Rule 2(b) [goods of more than one material or substance] or for any other reason, goods are, prima facie, classifiable under two or more headings, clas- sification shall be effected as follows: ***

(b) Mixtures, composite goods consisting of different materials or made up of different components, and goods put up in sets for retail sale, which cannot be classified by reference to 3(a) [which requires that goods be classified, if possible, under the more specific of the competing provisions], shall be classified as if they consisted of the material or component which gives them their essential character, insofar as this criterion is applicable.

The factors which determine the essential character of an article vary from case to case. Essential character may be derived from the nature of the materials or components, the material's or component's bulk, quantity, weight, value, or the role played in relation to the use of the goods. In general, essential character has been construed to mean the attribute which strongly marks or serves to distinguish what an article is; that which is indispensable to the structure or condition of an article.

Although the heavy cotton lining in the body of the garment adds a desirable feature to the garment (i.e., keeping the wearer warm), it is the outer shell which plays the pivotal roles in the utilization of the garment: it creates the garment and acts as a defense against moisture seepage. Therefore, the essential character, as determined under GRI 3(b), is imparted by the outer shell, considered of polyester under Subheading Note 2(A), supra.

Scarf-Coat Combination

The Explanatory Note to GRI 3(b) provides:

(X) For the purposes of this Rule, the term "goods put up in sets for retail sale" shall be taken to mean goods which:

(a) consist of at least two different articles which are, prima facie, classifiable in different headings. * * *

(b) consist of products or articles put up together to meet a particular need or carry out a specific activity; and

(c) are put up in a manner suitable for sale directly to users without repacking....

It is our opinion that the instant coat and scarf form a garment and accessory put up in a set for retail sale. Clearly, the essential character of this set is imparted by the coat. Therefore, the set is classifiable based upon the coat.

Style LM2600

This garment satisfies all the above-stated requirements for a parka, and would be classifiable as an anorak and similar article, except that the garment is missing a quilted/padded lining. In describing articles similar to anoraks, the Addendum 1988 to the Explanatory Notes to the Combined Nomenclature of the European Communities (Comm'n of the European Communities) ("Adden- dum") notes that

[g]arments which would otherwise be covered by the term "anoraks (including ski-jackets) and similar articles" but have neither a hood nor a lining could however be covered by the term "and similar articles" when this is used in relation to the term windcheaters. [Emphasis added.]

We agree with this distinction. Therefore, the garment is classifiable as an anorak and similar article. The outer shell of nylon imparts the essential character of the garment.

Style LM2605

The instant coat and scarf form a garment and accessory put up in a set for retail sale, as we stated in the discussion concerning Style G2622, with the coat clearly imparting the essential character. Therefore, the set is classifiable based upon the coat.

This garment is missing a hood, a tightening device at the waist, and a quilted or padded lining. As we do not find waist tightening mechanisms mandatory with respect to windcheater-type garments, this garment is classifiable as an anorak and similar article, when used in relation to the term windcheaters. The outer shell of 65 percent polyester and 35 percent cotton, considered of polyester under Subheading Note 2(A), supra, imparts the essential character of the garment.

Style LM2654

This garment satisfies all requirements for a parka, and is classifiable as an anorak and similar article. Although the heavy cotton lining in the body of the garment adds a desirable feature to the garment (i.e., keeping the wearer warm), it is the outer shell which plays the pivotal roles in the utilization of the garment: it creates the garment and acts as a defense against moisture seepage. Therefore, the essential character, as deter- mined under GRI 3(b), is imparted by the outer shell, considered of polyester under Subheading Note 2(A), supra.

Style M2485

This garment satisfies all requirements for a man's parka, and is classifiable as an anorak and similar article. Although the heavy acrylic lining in the body of the garment adds a desirable feature to the garment (i.e., keeping the wearer warm), it is the outer shell which plays the pivotal roles in the utilization of the garment: it creates the garment and acts as a defense against moisture seepage. Therefore, the essential character, as deter- mined under GRI 3(b), is imparted by the outer shell, considered of polyester under Subheading Note 2(A), supra.

HOLDING:

You state that the instant merchandise is considered water resistant in accordance with AATCC Test Method 35-1985, as required by Additional U.S. Note 2 to Chapter 62, HTSUSA. For the purposes of this ruling letter, we assume this to be correct.

As a result of the foregoing, the instant merchandise is classified as follows:

Style M2485, under subheading 6201.93.3000, HTSUSA, textile category 634, as men's or boys' overcoats, carcoats, capes, cloaks, anoraks (including ski-jackets), windbreakers and similar articles (including padded, sleeveless jackets), other than those of heading 6203, anoraks including ski-jackets), windbreakers and similar articles (included padded, sleeveless jackets), of man-made fibers, other, other, other, water resistant. The applicable rate of duty is 7.6 percent ad valorem.

All Other Styles, under subheading 6202.93.4500, HTSUSA, as women's or girls' overcoats, carcoats, capes, cloaks, anoraks (including ski-jackets), windbreakers and similar articles (including padded, sleeveless jackets), other than those of heading 6204, anoraks (including ski-jackets), windbreakers and similar articles (including padded, sleeveless jackets), of man-made fibers, other, other, other, water resistant. The applicable rate of duty is 7.6 percent ad valorem. All coats require a visa in textile category 635. The scarves for Styles G2622 and LM2605 require visas in textile category 659.

The designated textile and apparel category may be subdivided into parts. If so, visa and quota requirements applicable to the subject merchandise may be affected. Since part categories are the result of international bilateral agreements which are subject to frequent renegotiations and changes, to obtain the most current information available, we suggest that you check, close to the time of shipment, the Status Report On Current Import Quotas (Restraint Levels), an issuance of the U.S. Customs Service, which is updated weekly and is available at your local Customs office.

Due to the changeable nature of the statistical annotation (the ninth and tenth digits of the classification) and the restraint (quota/visa) categories, you should contact your local Customs office prior to importing the merchandise to determine the current applicability of any import restraints or requirements.

Pursuant to section 177.9, Customs Regulations (19 C.F.R. 177.9), HRL 081134 of April 27, 1989 is revoked in conformity with the foregoing.


Sincerely,


Harvey Fox, Director
Office of Regulations and Rulings