CLA-2 CO:R:C:G   082747 PR
TARIFF NO:  (no tariff number used)
             Miss Cecilia Khoo
             Embassy of Singapore
             1824 R Street, N.W.
             Washington, D.C.  20009-1691
             RE:  The country of origin of jeans assembled in Singapore
             Dear Miss Khoo:
                 This is in reply to your of August 30, 1988, on behalf of
             the Singapore Trade Development Board, concerning the country
             of origin of cotton jeans which are subjected to certain
             processing in Singapore.
             FACTS:
                 Three factual situations were presented.  In the first,
             fabric is imported into Singapore where it is cut into garment
             parts.  The cut portions are sent abroad for sewing the front
             and rear panels which are returned to Singapore for final
             assembly and finishing.  In the second situation, fabric is
             cut in another country and the cut pieces are sent to
             Singapore for assembly and finishing.  In the third situation,
             front and rear panels are imported into Singapore where the
             jeans are completed.
                 Samples of the jeans in various stages of production were
             submitted but were lost in transit from our New York office to
             this headquarters.  Cost and time breakdowns furnished for the
             first described situation clearly indicate that the bulk of
             the work and expense incurred in the manufacture of the jeans
             are attributable to the operations performed in Singapore.
             ISSUE:
                 The issue presented is whether the operations performed in
             Singapore are sufficient in each case to cause the imported
             merchandise to be considered to be products of Singapore for
             textile restraint purposes.
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             LAW AND ANALYSIS:
                 Section 12.130(b), Customs Regulations, provides that
             where a textile product is processed in more than one country
             or territory, it shall be a product of that country or
             territory where it last underwent a substantial
             transformation.  A textile product will be considered to have
             undergone a substantial transformation if it has been
             transformed by means of substantial manufacturing or
             processing operations into a new and different article of
             commerce.
                 In addition, Section 12.130(d), Customs Regulations,
             provides that a new and different article of commerce will
             usually result from manufacturing or processing operations if
             there is a change in (1) commercial identity, (2) fundamental
             character, or (3) commercial use.  That provision also states
             that in determining whether merchandise has been subjected to
             substantial manufacturing or processing operations, we will
             consider the physical change in the material or article, the
             time involved, the complexity of the operations, the level or
             degree of skill and/or technology involved, and the value
             added to the article in each country or territory.  Any one or
             a combination of these factors may be determinative and other
             factors may also be considered.  However, generally, the
             cutting of garment parts from unmarked fabric will result in a
             substantial transformation of the fabric.
                 Since we no longer have the submitted samples and we have
             been advised that there is a degree of urgency involved, for
             the purposes of this ruling we will assume that the jeans in
             question are the usual denim-type nontailored pants and that
             their assembly merely requires a simple joining of their
             various parts together by machine stitching.
                 Under the first situation described above, where the
             fabrics are cut and the garment parts partially assembled in
             Singapore after an intervening assembly in a second country,
             it seems clear that no substantial transformation occurred
             after the cutting of the garment parts.  Therefore, Singapore
             is the country of origin of those jeans.
                 In the second situation described above, the garment parts
             are cut in another country and the jeans are completely
             assembled in Singapore.  In our view, for textile restraint
             purposes, the assembly of jeans does not constitute a
             substantial manufacturing or processing operation.
             Accordingly, in this situation, the jeans would not be
             considered a product of Singapore.
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                 In the third situation, the front and rear panels are cut
             and sewn in another country and the garments are finished in
             Singapore.  Without further information, we are unable to
             determine the country of origin of this merchandise.
             HOLDING:
                 Under the first situation, Singapore is the country of
             origin.  Under the second set of facts, Singapore would not be
             the country of origin; and there is insufficient information
             to determine the country of origin under the third set of
             facts.
                                           Sincerely,
John Durant, Director
                                           Commercial Rulings Division